What expats should bring to Uruguay

I recently helped my parents pack up our family home in Ireland and throughout the process I heard many a time that "moving house is listed as one of the most stressful experiences in a person's life". Having been surrounded by cardboard boxes for weeks on end, and always realizing I needed something right after I sealed a box (with excessive layers of tape no less!) I couldn't imagine combining this experience and moving to a new country all at the same time!

Now I may be an expat myself, I may have done this "packing up my life" business, but the longer I am here the more I realize how young and free I am. My move to Uruguay was not dependent on whether I could sell a house in today's difficult economy, I was not responsible for young children and their belongings and welfare as well as my own, and I didn't have a whole lifetime and stuff to pack before I came...just 2 suitcases accompanied me down south (and I can't tell you how hard it was to close those 2 very innocent looking but insanely overpacked cases!).

Of the many expats I have met here in Uruguay - of all ages, situations, and personalities - pretty much all will agree that less is more when moving your life (explained wonderfully in this blog post "The Cost Of Owning Things"). If you're young, willing to adapt, and not responsible for anyone but yourself, then yes - bringing the bare minimum is possible and advisable (the less clutter you own, the less cluttered your life is - this is not a cliche!). However, when it comes to families - especially those with young children, and also those moving here long term (ie. a good few years without possible return "home") then there are a few things you may want to bring with you to make life a little more comfortable.

Remember, all lists should be edited/added to/ignored based on YOU, nobody can tell you exactly what you will or won't need. Some people can live in the same clothes day in-day out, some people cannot survive without a cookie cutter version of the life they are used to (if that sounds like you then think long and hard about a life in South America - it requires compromises!). With that said the very best advice I can give you is to take 5 or 10 minutes, sit down with a piece of paper and mentally go through a regular day. What things do you use every day? What is the one thing you can't live without? What is the one thing that relaxes you and puts a smile on your face? If those things can be packed, then bring them.


Here are some things expats have recommended packing (if there's anything you think I left out then feel free to add a comment!)

- Most importantly - your memories! In the end almost everything can be begged, bought, borrowed or stolen here, but you can never replace your photos, your keepsakes, anything that means a lot to you.

- Your favourite/most used things: this is very person specific - if you love to garden bring high quality garden trowels and tools, if you knit bring good knitting needles, if you're a DIY person bring good tools, if you love to read bring a good selection of English books to keep you going (they're in short and expensive supply here, though I think you can order then off amazon...and wish for luck with the postal system!). If you love make-up and facials etc bring high quality cosmetics (good stuff is rare and where it does exist its very overpriced!), if you draw or paint bring the right supplies...I think you get the idea - take a few minutes to think about YOU and what's most important in YOUR life.

- Rare ingredients: If you like to cook (or even if you don't yet cook but like foreign foods) then bring ingredients. Food in Uruguay is bland. They make a damn good steak but thats really as far as it goes. The don't do flavorings for baking like vanilla essence etc so if you bake bring them. I brought a tub of really good (really strong) curry paste and many many months later it is still making me lovely curries :) You can buy curry powder here but its just not as good as the paste. You'll won't find any thai food ingredients. Mexican stuff is here but in small supply and its all very overpriced. Once again, think of your favourites (whether its peanut butter, marmite, chutney, spices, good chocolate etc) and bring a little bit for a treat every once in a while.

- Kitchen supplies: Good pots and pans and general kitchen utensils (especially anything unusual!). Both can openers and corkscrews here are terrible - they break all the time and are so overpriced (a basic can opener can fetch US$15 and break in a week!). Pots and pans here are of cheap cheap China quality, and anything resembling the good stuff is crazily priced. If you cook it is worth investing at home and bringing a good set. The same goes for utensils or machines - a blender, electric mixer, good nonstick baking trays, chopping knives. Its all much more expensive here (because of all the import taxes) and the quality ranges from passable to very poor unless you are willing to pay big prices.

- Home Decor & Furniture: Just to clarify - obviously the bigger stuff on this list only applies to people who are importing containers of household goods, I am not recommending that you bring your grandmother's armchair on the plane (though I'd love to see someone try with how ridiculous airlines have become about baggage these days!). If you're setting up house long term in Uruguay then bring as much as you can - I could pretty much guarantee you that anything you bring from home, even if second hand, will last twice or three times as long as anything you will buy here, and you can be sure it will cost you less at home too. If you're building a house then bring fittings and fixtures like taps, light switches, door knobs, drawers pulls, wall and ceiling lights, towel holders/racks etc.

- Your Clothes! I've said it before in a post about clothes in Uruguay, but in general they leave much to be desired - in short, bring your clothes with you! Buy plenty of your tried and trusted favourites (trust me, you'll appreciate something as simple as well fitted jeans or good quality tshirts!). Underwear is made in very odd shapes and not the nicest materials (cotton isn't popular here, synthetic materials are - I'll say no more). This is especially relevant if you're very tall or short. Uruguay is a small market so things only come in so many sizes. If you wear very large clothes you should bring plenty with you.

- Technology! Import taxes are around 50 or 60% in Uruguay (and keep in mind they don't make much that isn't cow related)...then their value added tax (IVA) is 22%. This basically means you will pay through the nose for almost everything! If you need a laptop bring one. If you're setting up a business, bring everything!


The list could go on and on and on. I wrote a very detailed article for Total Uruguay about what to pack when moving here. Again it varies from person to person, and yes most things are "available" here but they will be more expensive and they will likely be of poor quality and with less choice. I wrote this article because when I went to pack my bags for moving here I had never been to South America before and I really didn't know where to start. Rest assured that the larger towns of Uruguay are very developed and will have pretty much everything you are used to. Bring a supply of the things that you use on a daily basis, and as you settle in you will find substitutes.

If you need some motivation to help you with your clear-out try this great blog post about holding on to physical belongings, moving away, and realizing you just don't need all the STUFF after all.

Cafe Lifestyle: The Perfect Weekend In Montevideo

I am a BIG fan of activity-filled days that somehow also feel lazy and relaxed. Today was one such day :)

Montevideo is a great place for understated taste and culture - ie. where it exists it hasn't been monopolized by arrogant posers. Unfortunately people foolishly tend to associate kitsch cafes, funky bars, unique venues and memorable music with modern metropolitan cities - Montevideo may be small, but under its greyish outer layer there exists a colourful array of places to be found and treasures to be sampled.



Today I finally made it to one such treasure - La Pasionaria, a little place of many titles! Choose from cafe, restaurant, boutique, art store, design studio, bookshop, art exposition and more - either way, it all equals good fun (and a million colourful corners to feast your eyes on!).

Whether you peruse the eclectic array of intriguing coffee table books in the libreria (plenty of nudity in the name of art, always good), gawk at the collection of fantastic Uruguayan photos and artworks in the design studio, or simply chow down on some of the great (and reasonably priced!) food in their cafe "El Beso", you're sure to enjoy yourself.



La Pasionaria is in La Ciudad Vieja, on Reqonquista no.587, on the corner with Juan Carlos Gomez. They're open Monday-Friday 10am - 7pm and Saturdays 12 - 6pm. And if you like La Pasionaria you're such to get a kick out of Cafe La Pausa just around the corner. These two spots are sure to become my favourite weekend morning hangouts.

Cafe La Pausa is fantastic....one of those places that is both hidden and yet right in front of your eyes. It is also located in La Ciudad Vieja, along Peatonal Sarandi just after Plaza Matriz (walking away from the city). It is an ordinary looking front door, sometimes with a sign, sometimes without....but if you head up to the first floor you will find the lovely Alicia offering a gorgeous little cafe filled with fantastic books and magazines to rummage through, a menu of home-made goodies to feast on, and the wonderful soothing sounds of soft jazz and classic tango wafting casually through the air.



The tall windows not only allow you to curl up in the afternoon sunlight with a coffee, tea or freshly squeezed juice of your choice, but it also makes it a perfect spot for a little bit of people watching along the bustling Sarandi....and the owner Alicia really strikes me as a person with some great life stories to tell...if you're looking to practice your español! :)



Afterwards take a stroll through the feria that takes place in Plaza Matriz...there are so many old photos, records, keys, postcards, jewellery and intriguing snippets of other peoples lives to help you piece together an elaborate history of how Montevideo once was. Don't actually buy anything though - the prices are massively inflated and Sunday holds something even better - The Tristan Narvaja Market (I'll get around to writing a post on that one someday!).

Until next time....go out and find Montevideo's secret treasures (and let me know about them!)

Place To See: The Central Cemetery Montevideo

What I love about Montevideo is that it is a city which YOU have to go out and find, it does not simply stare you in the face like many big tourist hubs. There isn't a set list of top 10 sites to see and then you can tick it off your list...it may be small, but it is rich in culture and hidden treasures - and when you make the effort to go out and find it, the discoveries are so much more rewarding.

My newest find (and one that I should have bothered to visit much sooner!) is the beautiful Central Cemetery ("El Cementerio Central") located in Barrio Sur. You'll find it along Avenida Gonzalo Ramirez at the end of Yaguaron, a beautiful oasis of peace and serenity amidst an otherwise bustling city.


Some may find it strange to visit a cemetery - personally I find the whole tourist fascination with the famous Recoleta Cemetery in Buenos Aires a little grotesque. Its not so much the "visiting a cemetery" part that I find weird, but more so the mass visits, the lack of reverence, the flashing cameras. Yes it is a beautiful place, but is also a sacred place - one where mothers, fathers, sons and daughters have been laid to rest.


Luckily that is something that is still very much acknowledged in this cemetery. There are still people visiting graves - old and new - but they don't mind you wandering. They have bought these beautiful monuments to pay homage to their loved ones, and as such they are there to be shared, appreciated and admired. It is a place of incredible peace and tranquility - it is filled with lush towering trees, some that hang down over the memorials, as if weeping with and comforting the mourning figures captured in the incredible grave stones. There are hundreds of different types of birds - colourful and singing, oblivious to the nature of place they have made their homes. Cats patrol the graves - some sprawled out on the hot sun soaked marble tombs, others watching from the shade...it almost catches you off guard when you notice just how many little feline eyes are following you!



Having been built in 1835, the cemetery is now over 160 years old and still expanding. You can see where the original plot lay, and how it has since expanded downward toward the rambla. There are many important figures buried here, including Delmira Agustini a major Latin-American writer, and Francisco Acuna de Figueroa, the man who penned Uruguay's national anthem (and probably a whole lot more if you're up to speed on Uruguayan, Italian and Argentine history!).


What remains most striking is of course the incredible grave stone monuments. Many were commissioned by very well-to-do families of the 19th century who spared no expense in leaving a fitting memorial for their family name. As such there are works by Genoese artist Lavarello, Italian sculptors Felix Morelli and Jose Livi, as well as Uruguayan artists Jose Luis Zorrilla de San Martin and Jose Belloni (who also designed the fountain in Plaza Entrevero and the horse statue in Parque Rodo).

This is definitely a place to visit in Montevideo. There is an incredible sense of peace and deep history. It is unusual to find such a place in the middle of a city and it is honestly somewhere I could visit again and again. I think it is open to the public every weekday until 4.30pm.

Helpful Articles & Advice For Expats In Uruguay

s I've been working away on so many articles for the free ebook that is available on www.totaluruguay.com. Unfortunately this has kept me more than distracted from my blog...so to try and make up for it I'll post links to all the articles here so at least you have something to tide you over until I get back to the good stuff.

• Thinking about a move to Uruguay? Or maybe wondering what has all these people relocating to this random tiny country in South America? Read up on the positive and negative aspects of life in Uruguay.

• Are you trying to search for an apartment in Uruguay but finding it impossible? I think trying to organise anything before you're actually here can be such a nightmare, so here's a whole load of tips on how to search for apartments in Montevideo before your arrival.
  
  
• Wondering about applying for residency? Trying to decide if it is worth all the effort or if you can just get away with living on a tourist visa? Read this article weighing up the pros and cons of residency v's a tourist visa.
  
  
• Moving to a different country means adapting to a new way of life....but preparing for the unknown can be a difficult and nerve-wrecking prospect. Here's a helpful list of what things you should bring with you if moving to Uruguay.
  
  
• Are you wondering about how to find work in Uruguay? Thinking about teaching English? or working online? Here's a few contacts and ideas to get you started.

I hope they help! If you have any questions about life in Uruguay feel free to post a comment and I'll do my best to answer you :)

Buying Real Estate in Uruguay

So I was approached to do a small interview offering my opinions on the burgeoning real estate market here in Uruguay...I expected nothing would come of it, but alas, here I am being quoted in surname form!

Nuwire Investor: " Uruguay Real Estate On A Steady Beat"

On another note, I really have to apologise for how ridiculously sporadic this blog has been, I guess it has mirrored my hectic life in Uruguay so far! But now that I am back from a quick trip to Ireland I plan to "settle" (in so far as that word could ever be used to describe me!) at least for a little while. And here's what's coming up in the next few posts:

- Banking & Investment in Uruguay

- What to bring & what to leave behind

- Why move to Uruguay?

- Searching for an apartment from outside Uruguay

- My new favourite galleries and art exhibits

- Montevideo Zoo! (*update: I went, I won't write a post on it - too depressing. Just take my word for it - don't go)


** Oh and if you're reading this and you have any requests for a blog post on anything let me know and I'll see what I can do!

Carrasco Airport Montevideo: Flying To & From Uruguay

If you are flying in or out of Uruguay you will almost definitely arrive via Carrasco International Airport. This is Uruguay's main airport and it is located in Montevideo's suburban neighbourhood of Carrasco, just 30-40 minutes drive from the city centre.

Carrasco Airport is a small airport by any standards - it is essentially just one long narrow terminal building, one end housing a few check-in desks and one end occupied by a door for arrivals. It is a very basic set-up with a fairly modern appearance but since the airport was privatized in 2003 to a company called "Puerta Del Sur" passengers now pay a hefty fee for this basic modernity!

Coming IN to Uruguay is free of charge, but if you wish to leave via Carrasco airport expect to pay US$31 for international passengers or US$17 if you wish to hop across the river to Buenos Aires. Its a bit strange that the one area they won't let you take pictures of in the airport is the desk where you pay this fee, they even have a 24hour guard to ensure nobody takes pictures! You can pay this "tasa de embarque" (boarding fee) in cash with US dollars or Uruguayan pesos , they say they accept visa, mastercard and amex but many people have they when they tried to pay with credit card they were refused so bring cash to be safe!



There's two small cafes either end of the terminal building and another snack stand inside at the gates. There is a "free shop" which obviously offers some sort of savings because the immigration officer very stealthily asked me to escort her to the duty free shop, buy her a few boxes of cigarettes and deposit them in an area where the security cameras couldn't see. It was very clandestine altogether, but entertaining nonetheless.


I have heard such a mixed bag of reports about going through customs when entering Uruguay - everything from the Spanish Inquisition over bringing in laptops to people who just walked on through with bags and bags of things. I find that it is very hard to provide accurate information or hard and fast rules about processes in Uruguay because it can honestly depend on who you encounter, what kind of day they're having and even what happened yesterday....I'm told that when customs officers are scolded for not catching something you can expect them to confiscate random things and ask pointless questions just for the sake of looking active and conscientious! Just make sure that if you're bringing anything new you make it look used (put pictures and personal things on laptops, don't bring anything in its original box etc).

Transport: Traffic in Montevideo is quite light and its a rather stress-free journey to and from the airport. You can take the DM1 bus from Tres Cruces bus station for 25pesos and it will leave you right outside the airport terminal building. Equally so the DM1 regularly stops outside the airport terminal and will bring you to Tres Cruces bus station which is in the centre of Montevideo. You will have to have small change to pay for the bus as they will not speak english and will NOT be happy if you attempt to hand them 500 or 1000 pesos to pay your 25peso fare!

You can also take a taxi to the airport but it is often better to book one through a remise (a taxi company) rather than hailing one on te street because it could be very expensive on the meter. There is a guy called Jaime that has been recommended by a few expats. He lived in the US for a few years and so speaks some english, his cell phone is 099-152-560. As I was leaving on a ridiculously early flight I used Remises La Española 02-622 2323, they collected me at 3.30am in Pocitos and the journey cost me 450pesos (no meter, pre-arranged fare).

Be warned that Carrasco airport is located in the municipal department on Canelones and so the taxis are governed by a different set of rules. They tend to be much larger nicer cars, but the price tags match that. This is all well and good if you have dollars to burn but if you're traveling on a budget or living a more Uruguayan lifestyle then call a Montevideo remise or take the DM1 bus to the centre. There's also a COPSA bus (I think its number 706), this also brings you to Tres Cruces but takes a much less scenic route...if your a tourist the DM1 goes by the coast and is a nice introduction to what Uruguay has to offer.

Carrasco International Airport Website: Everything is in Spanish but there is a good list of frequently asked questions and information about parking, car rental, duty free shopping, luggage etc.

Check here for arrival and departure times (this is also a good way to know what airlines fly in and out of Montevideo). At the moment the main routes seem to be with TAM, Pluna, American Airlines, Iberia, Aerolineas Argentinas, LAN and Gol.

Ice cream in Montevideo

Ok, so I may have mentioned Las Delicias as the best ice-cream place in Montevideo, and I still stand by that claim, but my favourite flavour is to be found at the Artigiano Heladeria on the corner of Juan Benito Blanco and Miguel Barreiro along the Rambla in Pocitos.


This heavenly little cup contains very creamy, slightly chewy "Mantecol" flavour...yes, for all you peanut-butter fans out there this is it in ice-cream form! And only 45 pesos! They even do delivery if you're feeling super lazy :)

Punta Del Diablo: Uruguay's Beautiful Beaches

How or why I never got around to writing a post about Punta Del Diablo after having lived there for over 2 months is a bit of a mystery. So now, during Uruguay's dreary months of winter (which happen to be the same climate as Ireland's fine summer!) I have decided to add a little sunshine....


Punta Del Diablo is a beautiful little fishing village in the very north-east corner of Uruguay near the border with Brazil. But don't be fooled by its little size - this place has a WHOLE lot to offer! Despite its permanent population being in the 400-500 mark, this little town swells to veritable hub of 20,000 sun seekers and surfers during the summer months.

Depending on your taste, you can choose a chilled out low season retreat or a fun-filled high season fling. Late December and January are definitely the busiest months (literally every hostel, hotel, cabaña and derelict building is rented out!). But February is also the month of Carnaval and Semana Santa in April sees another surge in visitors.

The gorgeous town is a very simple place - a couple a grocery stores, a bakery, artisan crafts and clothing stands, a few small surf shops and plenty of yummy fresh seafood. The best part of this place is the beaches - 3 amazing long sandy beaches to choose from (more if you're willing to walk a bit), and with every beach facing a slightly different direction it is a surfer's paradise for the choice of swell.

I worked at a fantastic hostel called El Diablo Tranquilo. I initially went there for a short 2 day visit in February and loved it so much I went back to live and work there for over 2 months! Almost all the guests stayed longer than they expected, there's just something there, a feeling, an atmosphere, it makes you never want to leave! They've got a fantastic bar and restaurant right on the main beach and what's even better is they're doing a big construction job now to build luxurious penthouse suites with ocean views...romantic escape anyone?

My favourite must see & do list:

• Alba's empanada stand on the wooden artesanal pier - her mejellones (mussels) empanadas are to die for, pair them with a cold bottle of Patrica beer and a view of the most beautiful sunsets you have ever seen.

• All the beaches! Playa Grande is quite simply spectacular...just a little walk over the rocks and you'll be amazed at this little piece of deserted heaven. If you REALLY want to spoil yourself head to El Diablo Tranquilo hostel and ask to take one of Fabian's horse tours that will take you along the winding paths in the forest and leave you galloping in the surf during the sunset!

• There's a great "taco" stand beside the police station in the town - yummy! If you're American (or Mexican) you won't consider these "tacos", they're soft tortilla wraps with a whole range of different fillings. They do wok dishes too, how very international! Its a great place to grab lunch.

• Any of the artesanal ice-cream shops - no explanation needed. Let me know your favourite flavour...I think I concluded with mascarpone and forest fruits.

• Santa Teresa National Park - you can spot anything from whales and sea turtles to eagles, hawks, condors and more! Take a stroll up through the forest, find your way back to the ocean and follow the many beautiful beaches all the way back to town.

• Go star gazing. If you've been living in the northern hemisphere you've never seen the constellations like this. The view of the night sky along the north east coast of Uruguay is truly incredible. Take a blanket and go look out for shooting stars, Orion's Belt, the Southern Cross, the pointer stars and more!

• Try out surfing! There are boards and wetsuits available at affordable prices, there are plenty of wave sizes and break points to choose from, give it a try! There is nothing better than coming back from a day in the water.

• Go to the highly recommended El Viejo y El Mar restaurant. My biggest regret is not getting to try this place during high season.
  

Getting to Punta Del Diablo from Montevideo is really easy, there's plenty of buses leaving Tres Cruces bus station and you can check the bus timetable here. Just be sure to check that the bus you take actually enters town and doesn't just leave you at the entrada because its quite a walk...especially with a backpack! For more information on Punta del Diablo check out their town portal page.

Futbol: The Football Culture In Uruguay

The first thing that almost everyone said to me when I told them I was moving to Uruguay was: "The only thing I know about Uruguay is that they hosted the first World Cup and won". Ok, so maybe that was just from the guys that I told - but still, it was an overwhelmingly common reaction!

Uruguay is BIG on their football culture. The first World Cup was held here in Montevideo in 1930 and they built their Estadio Centenario (Centennial Stadium) to hold nearly 100,000 people! I'm writing about this because I went there last night to watch the semi-final match of the Copa Libertadores (Liberator's Cup).



My friend's favourite team - "Nacional" - were up against Argentina's "Estudiantes" and despite having won this much-sought-after cup 3 times, this was the first time Nacional had reached the semi's in 21 years - it was BIG! The weirdest thing about this match? There wasn't a single Estudiantes fan in the whole stadium...and the stadium had almost 60,000 people there!! The whole place was full to support Nacional! The energy was incredible.




There is an infamous rivalry between Montevideo's teams, especially between Nacional and Peñarol. The rivalry between these 2 clubs is deep, partly political (though not SO much anymore) and stretches back over 100 years! I joked that I would turn up wearing a Peñarol shirt (obviously only joking) and he told me I would simply be killed. He wasn't lying - even though they were playing a different team most of the chants mentioned Peñarol in some way...my favourite of which translates in to "suck my balls Peñarol" - it has a great rhyming rhythm in Spanish ;)

I had been looking forward to seeing one of these games - and what a way to see it, Nacional's first semi-final in 21years! However even with only Nacional fans there I could still feel this tingling worry in the back of my head - I mean, there were riot police all over even though there weren't any fans from the opposing team to fight with! I can imagine that a Nacional v Peñarol match may be a bit too much for some.

Street Art & Graffiti in Montevideo

Uruguay is definitely a land of artists. For its small size it produces a large number of writers, poets, painters, musicians and more. There are regular cultural activities - theatres to visit, concerts to attend and shows to be seen...but best of all there's art in the streets.

I've already spoken about the candombe culture here - it's probably one of my favourite aspects of Uruguayan society - but more and more I've been seeing some fantastic street art dotted throughout the city.

Recently I've discovered some really fantastic murals and graffiti along the small streets throughout Pocitos, Palermo and Barrio Sur. This one below is on the corner of San Salvador and Requena and there's plenty more to be found at the stairs at the end of Requena.

This one is especially impressive, its on a building site opposite The Hermitage Hotel on Juan Benito Blanco in Pocitos so it will no doubt the covered up during construction of whatever is built there in the future.


But all throughout the different barrios there are many gems to be found, its just about appreciating what this little city has to offer.

There's been a number of outdoor photo exhibits popping up all over the city too. There was a great display of paintings from The Louvre Gallery along the Rambla in Pocitos during the summer, and now there is a long running (maybe even permanent!) photo exhibit in Parque Rodo (opposite the casino). This exhibit has already been renewed many times in the past few months covering subjects such as Unique World Cultures and The Reconstruction of Beirut.

So make sure to get out there and see what Montevideo has to offer!

Fruits and Vegetables of Uruguay

I guess it is to be expected that when you move to a new country they will have a different selection of fresh produce available. It may not be expected however that you are faced with fruits or vegetables you have neither seen, or even heard of before!

Farmer's Markets are a big part of daily life here in Montevideo and they sell a collection of little fruits and vegetables that are totally new to me. Here are 2 fine examples:

Has anyone ever heard of "Persimmons" before? I certainly hadn't. They look like apple-sized pumkins, they have the skin texture of a tomato but the flesh texture of a nectarine. They have a nice but very unusual taste (quite bland, almost sweet) and seem to only be available here in the Autumn season.


Another weird one is "Zapallitos". They look kind of like dark green pin cushions and they taste a bit like zucchini/courgette. These are mostly used for making pies and quiches as they can be pretty flavourless otherwise.



And then there's the larger cousin of these guys - the regular "Zapallo". This one might look a bit more familiar to Americans as they are used to different types of squash but this one was new for me! It looks like a green knobbly under ripe pumkin and it tastes just sweet potato - yum. They sell it in chunks (or whole if you plan on feeding a nation!) at all the farmers markets.


To read how someone made a massive batch of soup for just $1 thanks to feria vegetables click here!

Things to see and do in Montevideo

Don't get me wrong, I love Uruguay and love Montevideo (otherwise why would I be living here?!) but this little city can feel a bit limiting sometimes. As such I have decided that from now on I will be making a more conscious effort to unearth the hidden gems and see what Montevideo really has to offer. I intend to fill my next few months with culture, art, music, history, events, food, and whatever other activities I can get my hands on...so stay tuned!

So far I've happened upon a few locations that have quickly become my favourites so we'll start with those.

CANDOMBE: This is a sure fire way to lift the spirit! Candombe is the traditional drumming music of Uruguay and during the weekend you can find local drum groups called comparsas practicing throughout the Barrio Sur and Palermo districts.

These groups march the streets playing infectious rhythms which literally draw people out of their apartments on to their balconies, rooves and door ways. Women (and some men) join the dancers which lead the way as they move through the streets and whole families just join the crowd - it creates a wonderful sense of community .

The pictures above were taken in Barrio Sur district, somewhere along Carlos Gardel Street I think. However now I'm living in Parque Rodo and one of the greatest comparsas (the all female one, I think they're called La Milasa?) practice right outside my house at the bottom of Juan Manuel Blanes - I could watch them for hours!

SUBTE: This little contemporary gallery always has something unique and original to offer the passerby. I've seen a powerful photo exhibit documenting the unexplained disappearances during the dictatorships and a fun modern and interpretive art collection so there's sure to be a good range.

It's located underground at Plaza Fabini along 18 de Julio and you can check out what they have planned at their blog (its in Spanish but very easy to navigate). They're open Tuesdays through Sundays from 3.30pm until 9pm.

I think next on my list will be Montevideo Zoo, The Municipal Photography Centre and The Visual Arts Museum (which I passed the other day and it looks really cool so that one might come first!)

Accommodation in Uruguay: Renting an apartment in Montevideo

One of the biggest challenges when moving country is first finding somewhere to call home. I arrived on Uruguay's fine shores with no job, no apartment, no specific plans, no contacts here - nada! Starting from scratch can be quite a challenge...especially in Uruguay!

From what I have experienced there really isn't a rental culture here like there is in the USA or Europe. You won't find a great deal of furnished apartments and it is considered very unusual to share apartments with people you don't know (as is done by students and young professionals elsewhere in the world). As the wages are so low and employment opportunities are harder to come by, many young people live with their families well in to their twenties and in a lot of cases until they are engaged or married. The only young Uruguayans I have met who rent apartments are those who are from the interior and have moved to Montevideo for university or work and do not have any family to live with.

As such, the apartments that are available are aimed at a different group of people (families and couples rather than students and young workers). I found that the number of furnished apartments in Montevideo is quite low because the laws here tend to favour the tenant which has made landlords incredibly wary and they are choosing not to kit out their apartments with breakable/steal-able furniture. This makes it difficult for us new-comers because furniture here is expensive and often of poor quality (with an import tax somewhere in the 50-60% mark you'll find that even shoddy chinese imports are overpriced!)

Also in Uruguay they will ask you for a garantía (a guarantee, ie. security deposit or collateral). In many cases landlords ask that this garantía be in the form of a property in Montevideo! At first this really confused me as I asked "why the hell would I want to rent your apartment if I already own one around the corner?!". I then realised that Uruguayan's deal with this request by having their parents or a family member act as a guarantor, but obviously as a foreigner I did not have such an option and so had to look only at apartments where the landlord accepts a cash deposit (which only further decreased potential places to live!)

I think the "legal" limit a landlord can request for a garantía is the equivalent of 4 months rent. However, like most rules in Uruguay this is bend-able and many asked me for up to 6 months rent that would be held in a joint account for the duration of my lease. With most furnished apartments in Montevideo renting at around US$500 a month I close to passed out at the request of a $3000 deposit in a country where $400 monthly wage is considered good! I think some landlords will hold a 1 or 2 month deposit for a short term lease (6 months or less) and a larger garantía for longer period.

Also be aware that in Uruguay you will have to pay something called Gastos Communes (communal building fees). These can vary from 400pesos anywhere up to 12,000pesos! As far as I am aware they always include your water bill. After that they can include heating, a 24hour doorman ("portero"), building cleaning and maintenance, built-in air-conditioning and more, or none of these things! ...it really depends on the building. Make sure when you are renting an apartment that you know the cost of the monthly rent, the garantía and the gastos communes (and what this covers) so as to avoid any surprises later. Oh and if you use an inmobiliaria (a real estate agent) then expect to pay them half a months rent for a 6 month lease and a month's rent commission for anything longer!

Like many things here in Uruguay you have to just keep searching until you find what you're looking for. BuscandoCasa (although completely in Spanish) is the best resource you'll find for renting an apartment in Montevideo. It has the most recent listings and most of them come complete with prices, pictures and a decent amount of description and information. It also clarifies if they are furnished or not and you can search specifically by this requirement which is handy.

Another resource is the classifieds section of El Pais Newspaper called Gallito which can be accessed online. I found these listings to be significantly less reliable. Many don't have pictures or prices and do not provide all the details about the properties but sometimes they have apartments that aren't listed on buscandocasa so when you're at the bottom of the barrel its nice to have somewhere else to go!

Here are my tips for finding an apartment to rent in Montevideo:

- Familiarise yourself with the Barrios (neighbourhoods) of Montevideo and the main routes of the city. The most central areas are Ciudad Vieja, Centro, Cordon, Barrio Sur, Palermo, Tres Cruces, Parque Battle, Parque Rodó, Punta Carretas, Pocitos and Buceo. The last 4 listed are the most upmarket areas often recommended to expats and tourists but these are also the most expensive and also the most snobby.


There are advantages and disadvantages at both ends. Ciudad Vieja, Centro, Sur and Palermo all have a great character. They are very central, steeped in history and culture and are to me the "real" Montevideo, however poverty is more visible here and the flashiness of expensive clothes or cameras is not recommended. Parque Rodó, Punta Carretas, Pocitos and Buceo are a little further from the thick of things but very well served by buses or a good pair of legs :) They are beautiful areas with lovely beaches and green areas but there is a distinct sense of American suburbs and snobbery that you won't find in the older parts of town.

- Do your research. I know information is hard to come by but do as much reading as you can before you come. Ask questions, get answers and make contacts on either of these discussion forums: Total Uruguay and Sociedad Southron. Look at what is available online at buscandocasa and elsewhere, contact the owners or inmobiliarias that have listed properties - although be aware that they may only speak Spanish so you should at least attempt to write in Spanish if you expect replies.

- Book yourself some short-term accommodation for at least the first few days so you don't have to worry about where you will sleep each night!

- If possible arrange in advance to view apartments when you arrive and look at as many as you can in order to get a good idea of what is available, where, and at what price.

- When you arrive take the time to walk around each neighbourhood to get a feel for where is best for you. Some find Centro too hectic, some find Buceo too far away etc. Stroll around the streets and keep a note of what you see, how you feel and then decide what area is best for you. Don't simply go on what other people tell you - remember that people often recommend the most expensive areas to foreigners, if you don't have the money to live in luxury then you need to be informed!

Residency in Uruguay: The Infamous Cedula

If you are thinking about applying for Uruguayan residency then make sure to come prepared with lots of patience and an ability to laugh at the ridiculousness of it all! I started my residency "process" - if you want to call it that - back in Ireland. You first have to get a certified copy of your birth certificate from the relevant body in your country of birth. You also have to get a police certificate of good conduct saying you've been a good boy or girl. Depending on what country you're in the police may take their time running this check, especially if you have lived at multiple addresses, so don't leave it too late to ask for it!

When you have both of these documents they must be "certified" ie. stamped (they love stamps!) by the Embassy of Uruguay in your country. This "certification" cost me €121, I also had to pay for all the documents to be translated in to Spanish which cost €30 per page. (If you need a translator once here I recommend Maria Rincon - maria.rincon@gmail.com - she is lovely and speaks perfect English, she may also have other contacts such as escribanos if you need them). If there is no embassy in your country there should be a consulate office. If not you should contact the country you are closest to that has an embassy and they will direct you to the appropriate person (if you're lucky! The staff at the embassy in London we awful to me over the phone). Here is a list of all the Uruguayan Embassies worldwide.

So, here was me arriving in Uruguay with all my prepared documents thinking I was great...I was wrong! These documents must also be "legalized" here, you know what that means - MORE STAMPS! I can't remember how much each of these legalizations cost, I just remember 50 pesos here, 80 pesos there, 65 pesos for something else...it feels never ending and you lose track after a while (because keeping track may easily cause you to lose heart!). Here is some extra info about legalizing documents here in Uruguay. It is written as "American specific" but it applies to everyone looking to legalize documents here.

Once all that is done you have to prove your income. This is all fine n dandy if you fit into the little pidgeon hole they have - ie. you have a Uruguayan job in a cookie cutter Uruguayan company. If you are self-employed, work online, live on a rental income, make money from stocks, whatever it is, you have to go about proving that income. For this you must find an escribano (notary public), I highly recommend you make it your priority to find a FRIENDLY one because otherwise they can really make you jump through hoops.

The one I used was nice enough (though I wouldn't go screaming from the hilltops about him or anything). His name is Fernando Alvarez Turpia, his email is feralva2004@hotmail.com and his numbers are 00598 99 180 919 (cell) and 005982 6141652 (fixed line). He doesn't speak any English but his daughter Alejandra does and she can translate if you need that. If you email him I recommend an attempt at Spanish. However there really is no shortage of escribanos here so don't feel that you are limited, this just happened to be who I ended up using.

Everyone applying for residency must have a full health check here in Uruguay. There are a few different companies who provide this service. I had mine done at UCM and paid about 1200 pesos (about $50-$60) but you can do it for cheaper (I found this out afterwards of course!). They will weigh you, measure you, look at your teeth, take a small blood sample, and you must also have a tetanus shot if you cannot provide documentation that you have recently had one. You must also undergo a sexual health examination (I don't know if thats just for women, I assume its for everyone). If you provide recent documentation from your own doctor that you have had a sexual health exam in your home country then you may be able to avoid this. Once you have been poked and prodded to their hearts content they will give you the Carne De Salud (basically a health card which must be presented later with all your other papers).

One you have your assortment of documents (it starts to look like your life's memoirs after a while!) then you get to enjoy my FAVOURITE part - the immigration office! This office is just unbelievable. You have to take a numbered ticket, wait in line, have them stamp one piece of paper, go to the caja (a separate cash desk) to pay for anything, then take another ticket, wait in another line, then go to the desk with the computer, have them re-type all the information on the paper in to their computer, sign this, they stamp it and send you back to where you started! This process feels like groundhog day! The staff go well out of their way to avoid anything resembling work and you will find that bureaucracy and rubber stamping are very much alive and well in this building!

You must first go to Immigration (on Missiones 1513 in Ciudad Vieja) to request a date to present all your papers (in order to request this date you must of course wait in line for an hour!). You will return on this given date and time with your multi-stamped, certified and legalized police certificate, your passport and a photocopy of your passport, your health check card, your letter from the escribano regarding your income and the accompanying documentation (mine was a work contract but other items may also be used). They will cover your fingers in lovely sticky tar paint and take all your fingerprints the old fashioned Sherlock Holmes way...they then give you pathetic made-in-china wetwipes to try and remove it, basically you'll be smudging the stuff everywhere for a whole day after! Oh, and of course you have to pay for this, 872 pesos when I did it.

Once you go through all of this you have to go to the OTHER office to request ANOTHER date upon which you can return to have your picture taken. Oh yes, they like to make sure everyone is employed by the state here in Uruguay, and each employee is armed with their own rubber stamp! So I went to the other office on Rincón, presented my multi-stamped birth certificate (which I had to get stamped and signed one more time upstairs in this building before I was allowed to present it- I kid you not!). Then I paid again, just for requesting a date!

I returned a week later, stood in line once more, got my picture taken, and although Uruguayans are allowed collect their card that same day, I was told to return 3 days later to collect mine....but alas, I had the card!

The final stage? (oh, thats right, its not over!) This cedula is "en tramite", in order to get my proper one that lasts 3 years I had to take my birth certificate to the "Registro de Estado Civil" on Uruguay 933 in Ciudad Vieja to have it filed and be given a Uruguayan birth certificate (if you're married you must also do this with your marriage certificate). When I went to do this the woman started yelling incoherently at me, saying I was missing some vital part and I had to go to the Ministry of Exterior Affairs...I went there, waited, took a number etc etc, and they couldn't decide what it was that wasn't quite right about my birth cert. In the end they seemed to decide that they wanted the individual who signed and authorised my birth certificate on the day I was born to sign the legalisation they had done (I kid you not!).

That was the point where I gave up. I was still riding on a relative high after getting my temporary cedula, I knew I had to sort my birth certificate before I could get my permanent one a year later, but I just didn't have the energy for anymore...maybe SOME day I'll get around to finishing the job.

I write this post NOT to put anyone off coming to Uruguay - usually the people who find themselves in this little hidden gem of a country do so for a pretty specific reason - however if you are toying with the idea of getting residency "just for fun", DON'T! It is not a process to be entered in to lightly as you may just lose your sanity somewhere along the way! Have a good reason for wanting it.

Here is a discussion thread I found of 2 expats who also applied for the residency here in Uruguay. You'll also find plenty more information about the residency proces in the free ebook at Total Uruguay.

The Uruguayan Menu: Eating Out & Restaurants in Montevideo

I am a foodie! I love to cook (which is sometimes challenging here with the lack of certain ingredients and the Uruguayan tendency to only have a hotplate or microwave in the kitchen!) so when I get frustrated its good to have a favourite safe haven to cheer up a hungry stomach :)

These are my recommendations so far but this list will certainly grow so check in again for updates!

If anyone knows how to do meat, it is the Uruguayans. Let's just say that a friend of mine once ordered chorizo (sausage) and when he asked what comes with it they offered him a steak!?! Many tourists and newbies are pointed in the direction of the big Mercados (Mercado Artesal- no! just avoid it! WORST PARILLA EVER! and Mercado Del Puerto is nice but significantly overpriced and often over-run with tourists from the cruise ships!)

Really the Ultimate Uruguayan Parrilla is to be found at La Otra (in Pocitos, 758 Tomás Diago, on the corner with Juan M. Pérez, apparently open "everyday" but this IS Uruguay so watch out for all those holidays they take! from 12-4pm and 8pm to 1am).




Here at La Otra you will find really tasty meat of every variety and some really nice sides too (which is rare!) They actually use a variety of leaves in their green salads and the dips which come with the bread (parsley and LOTS of garlic, and a mysterious semi-spicy one) are AMAZING!


SUSHI!!! Yes, that's right, I have found genuine (made by an adorable Japanese family) and fresh sushi here in Montevideo! For those of you who live here (and have moved from a thriving metropolis filled with tasty international cuisine) you may find the choices down south a little limiting sometimes. As such I am delighted to share this one with you.


Their whole menu is available online in pdf form on their website, I recommend their sushi teishoku box (great value but only available at lunch time), the california rolls are good, try the temaki (seaweed roll...ask for salmon). I'm working my way through the whole menu one maki at a time!

You'll find Sumi Sushi on Patria 699 (on the corner of Jose Figueria) on the Punta Carretas side of Parque Rodo...and they do delivery but charge 50pesos if you're outside the Punta Carretas, Parque Rodo or Pocitos areas.


To taste Uruguay's favourite, the traditional empanada (pastry pouches filled with yummy ingredients) I have to recommend La Taberna Del Diablo- "Devils Tavern". This place is great! Choose from a wide range (39 on last count!) of empanadas with vegetable, meat, chicken, ham, cheese or sweet fillings. I highly recommend the pollo suprema (chicken and mushrooms in a creamy sauce) and chop suey verduras (soy vegetables). You can have them fried (frita) or baked (al horno)...better al horno in my humble opinion, and better for your health too!


They also make great pizzas too (which is rare here in Montevideo where "pizza" means just dough and sauce and common "muzzarella", or cheesy pizza, is about as close to real pizza as cider is to champagne!). The "mediterranea" pizza with calamaris is pretty amazing and for one person costs just 70pesos (about $3) and empanadas are only 25pesos ($1) each! If you're a dessert person give the dulcelate empanada a try, you won't regret it! They all taste great with a cold bottle of Patricia beer which they serve in glasses from the freezer, love it!

La Taberna Del Diablo is very close to Parque Rodo on the corner of Avenida Gonzalo Ramirez and Pablo de Maria. Check out their website here (all in spanish as per usual!)

My newest find (thanks to Shirley and Santiago!) is the Chinese Buffet! Those missing the sticky sauces and satisfaction of a cheap chinese take-out will be delighted to hear that you can get an all-you-can-eat (spring rolls, sweet and sour chicken, beef with blackbean sauce, fried rice, the lot...and ice cream) for 210pesos! Its in Centro, on San Jose close to Paraguay.

And last, but MOST DEFINITELY not least, is my favourite...Las Delicias! For incredible creamy ice-cream this is the one stop shop. You'll find it in Pocitos on the corner of 21 de Setiembre and Ellauri and it is heavenly! Try all the flavours to find your favourite, currently I'm loving Las Delicias (chocolate with crunchy chocolate nutty pieces, yum!) and cheesecake (tastes exactly like a great cheesecake with fruits of the forest). The best way to do it is order the "buffet", this way you can choose all the flavours you want, and you get to guess the weight...if you guess correct its free! Even if you have to pay it ends up cheaper than getting a big cone (just avoid all the toppings and extras they try to sell you!)



Still on my list of food places to go/discover...the creperie in Ciudad Vieja on Bartolomé Mitre, the authentic but scary looking Korean places in Ciudad Vieja beside the Radisson, the "best paella ever" recommended by my room mate that is apparently to be found in Mercado Del Puerto....and I'm on the look-out for an Indian restaurant or India cooking supplies, if anyone knows of a secret location PLEASE share the details!


Bon appetite! ¡Buen provecho!