Wednesday, 11 March 2009

Accommodation in Uruguay: Renting an apartment in Montevideo

One of the biggest challenges when moving country is first finding somewhere to call home. I arrived on Uruguay's fine shores with no job, no apartment, no specific plans, no contacts here - nada! Starting from scratch can be quite a challenge...especially in Uruguay!

From what I have experienced there really isn't a rental culture here like there is in the USA or Europe. You won't find a great deal of furnished apartments and it is considered very unusual to share apartments with people you don't know (as is done by students and young professionals elsewhere in the world). As the wages are so low and employment opportunities are harder to come by, many young people live with their families well in to their twenties and in a lot of cases until they are engaged or married. The only young Uruguayans I have met who rent apartments are those who are from the interior and have moved to Montevideo for university or work and do not have any family to live with.

As such, the apartments that are available are aimed at a different group of people (families and couples rather than students and young workers). I found that the number of furnished apartments in Montevideo is quite low because the laws here tend to favour the tenant which has made landlords incredibly wary and they are choosing not to kit out their apartments with breakable/steal-able furniture. This makes it difficult for us new-comers because furniture here is expensive and often of poor quality (with an import tax somewhere in the 50-60% mark you'll find that even shoddy chinese imports are overpriced!)

Also in Uruguay they will ask you for a garantía (a guarantee, ie. security deposit or collateral). In many cases landlords ask that this garantía be in the form of a property in Montevideo! At first this really confused me as I asked "why the hell would I want to rent your apartment if I already own one around the corner?!". I then realised that Uruguayan's deal with this request by having their parents or a family member act as a guarantor, but obviously as a foreigner I did not have such an option and so had to look only at apartments where the landlord accepts a cash deposit (which only further decreased potential places to live!)

I think the "legal" limit a landlord can request for a garantía is the equivalent of 4 months rent. However, like most rules in Uruguay this is bend-able and many asked me for up to 6 months rent that would be held in a joint account for the duration of my lease. With most furnished apartments in Montevideo renting at around US$500 a month I close to passed out at the request of a $3000 deposit in a country where $400 monthly wage is considered good! I think some landlords will hold a 1 or 2 month deposit for a short term lease (6 months or less) and a larger garantía for longer period.

Also be aware that in Uruguay you will have to pay something called Gastos Communes (communal building fees). These can vary from 400pesos anywhere up to 12,000pesos! As far as I am aware they always include your water bill. After that they can include heating, a 24hour doorman ("portero"), building cleaning and maintenance, built-in air-conditioning and more, or none of these things! ...it really depends on the building. Make sure when you are renting an apartment that you know the cost of the monthly rent, the garantía and the gastos communes (and what this covers) so as to avoid any surprises later. Oh and if you use an inmobiliaria (a real estate agent) then expect to pay them half a months rent for a 6 month lease and a month's rent commission for anything longer!

Like many things here in Uruguay you have to just keep searching until you find what you're looking for. BuscandoCasa (although completely in Spanish) is the best resource you'll find for renting an apartment in Montevideo. It has the most recent listings and most of them come complete with prices, pictures and a decent amount of description and information. It also clarifies if they are furnished or not and you can search specifically by this requirement which is handy.

Another resource is the classifieds section of El Pais Newspaper called Gallito which can be accessed online. I found these listings to be significantly less reliable. Many don't have pictures or prices and do not provide all the details about the properties but sometimes they have apartments that aren't listed on buscandocasa so when you're at the bottom of the barrel its nice to have somewhere else to go!

Here are my tips for finding an apartment to rent in Montevideo:

- Familiarise yourself with the Barrios (neighbourhoods) of Montevideo and the main routes of the city. The most central areas are Ciudad Vieja, Centro, Cordon, Barrio Sur, Palermo, Tres Cruces, Parque Battle, Parque Rodó, Punta Carretas, Pocitos and Buceo. The last 4 listed are the most upmarket areas often recommended to expats and tourists but these are also the most expensive and also the most snobby.


There are advantages and disadvantages at both ends. Ciudad Vieja, Centro, Sur and Palermo all have a great character. They are very central, steeped in history and culture and are to me the "real" Montevideo, however poverty is more visible here and the flashiness of expensive clothes or cameras is not recommended. Parque Rodó, Punta Carretas, Pocitos and Buceo are a little further from the thick of things but very well served by buses or a good pair of legs :) They are beautiful areas with lovely beaches and green areas but there is a distinct sense of American suburbs and snobbery that you won't find in the older parts of town.

- Do your research. I know information is hard to come by but do as much reading as you can before you come. Ask questions, get answers and make contacts on either of these discussion forums: Total Uruguay and Sociedad Southron. Look at what is available online at buscandocasa and elsewhere, contact the owners or inmobiliarias that have listed properties - although be aware that they may only speak Spanish so you should at least attempt to write in Spanish if you expect replies.

- Book yourself some short-term accommodation for at least the first few days so you don't have to worry about where you will sleep each night!

- If possible arrange in advance to view apartments when you arrive and look at as many as you can in order to get a good idea of what is available, where, and at what price.

- When you arrive take the time to walk around each neighbourhood to get a feel for where is best for you. Some find Centro too hectic, some find Buceo too far away etc. Stroll around the streets and keep a note of what you see, how you feel and then decide what area is best for you. Don't simply go on what other people tell you - remember that people often recommend the most expensive areas to foreigners, if you don't have the money to live in luxury then you need to be informed!

9 comments:

  1. I'm glad you have found Small State of interest. I look forward to following your adventures in Uruguay.

    I'm jealous that you're just moving in. I lived in Montevideo for most of last year. It's an incredible city.

    Benjamin Gedan

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  2. Incredibly useful blog - thanks for writing it!

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  3. Hola Irish Blogger,

    Second attempt at posting. The first post disappeared into the ether. I'm a Celt living in Andalucia. Scottish not Irish :-).

    I am researching the possibility of opening a quality BnB in Montevideo. The market seems to be open for this as a search of the www for small quality hotels/BnB's has yielded nothing unlike Buenos Aires which has a large choice of personalized lodgings.

    Property prices seem interesting although they must reflect the low salary levels and higher mortgage costs. However, it looks like Montevideo has lots of lovely old buildings which could be converted. I have already done this in France and Spain.

    I am intrigued by your comments on daily life. Poor service, poor quality goods, the relative expense of many things etc. I know Brazil well and this mirrors my experience there.

    I have been thinking of opening a Pousada in Brazil but the violence problem, particularly as a Gringo, is too serious. A very good friend of mine in Salvador da Bahia has advised me to steer well clear of Brazil.

    He will be visiting Montevideo and BA next week to do some initial groundwork.

    Ba seems to be much more developed for tourism but I have doubts about investing thee because of the political uncertainty. Remember the way private bank accounts were raided by the govt. in 2002!

    I'ds love to get your feedback on my thoughts. I'm very much at the due diligence stage so finding your blog has been a real help.

    I hope you can find a minute to drop me a line. My e mail is tapasbarr@hotmail.com.

    Un saludo,


    James

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  4. Hey, I went to Uruguay and Argentina and I found renting apartments more difficult in Montevideo. To get apartment for rent buenos aires
    I did some research and found one near the downtown that was really nice thanks to that service call ForRent. I liked both countries, but in Buenos Aires I had a little bit more fun.
    Mark

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  5. Great place to stay for a month to 6 months is a B&B called Una Noche Mas, located in Punta Carretas, close to Parque Rodo. Discount for long term stay, clean, well kept and includes daily breakfast.

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  6. I think I probably would have agreed a few months ago that you´re right, but my parents came to visit me in Montevideo and stayed at Una Noche Mas and I was quite disappointed.

    For a few nights it is ok (but ask for the room on the top floor, the other rooms are a bit dark and old, the top floor one is very bright). If you're staying for 6 months then I would definitely look in to getting your own place. I think the Palermo Art Hostel does a short term apartment rental, and depending on the time of year you can probably negotiate a deal with SOME inmobiliarias. Also take a look at Doug Heller's services on www.LivinginMontevideo.com

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  7. Hey there!

    I wanted to thank you for your blog. I'm a New York native who'll be moving down to Montevideo for a 2 years masters program in March, and your blog has been the most useful source I've found for all the day to day bits and pieces that have me both nervious and excited. So, thanks so much! It may be presumptious but...care to grab a coffee in March if you're still around? I'm not sketchy, I swear. To prove it, you can vet me on growthandgoodworks.wordpress.com

    Thanks again!

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  8. Hi Julia!

    Thanks for the compliment and I'm delighted people are finding the info helpful. I remember when I first arrived on Uruguay's fine shores with nothing - no Spanish, no job, no apartment, no contacts, no plan and very little money. I remember finding it so challenging and searching so hard for help and info and coming up blank. So I decided to throw together a few bits and pieces about what I was learning along the way and try to let other people know what they might expect if moving to Uruguay.

    Unfortunately I got busy and distracted and ran out of steam but what I did manage to write about seems to have helped a few people find their feet so that makes me happy. I really recommend you keep writing when you get to Uruguay and share your experiences so people can happen upon your blog as they have happened upon mine.

    I moved back to Ireland in June 2010 so I can prepare for wherever my adventure will take me. I'm sorry I'm not around to meet you but I'm sure you will come to love Uruguay just as much as I did. Just remember to really go out and find it, there is so much there if you look.

    Have fun!!!

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  9. I went to Uruguay and Argentina and I found renting apartments more difficult in Montevideo. To get an apartment rental in Buenos Aires I did some research and found one near the downtown that was really nice thanks to those real estate companies that help you in the process of apartment hunting. I liked both countries, but in Buenos Aires I had a little bit more fun.
    Kirsten

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