Saturday 10 October 2009

Cafe Lifestyle: The Perfect Weekend In Montevideo

I am a BIG fan of activity-filled days that somehow also feel lazy and relaxed. Today was one such day :)

Montevideo is a great place for understated taste and culture - ie. where it exists it hasn't been monopolized by arrogant posers. Unfortunately people foolishly tend to associate kitsch cafes, funky bars, unique venues and memorable music with modern metropolitan cities - Montevideo may be small, but under its greyish outer layer there exists a colourful array of places to be found and treasures to be sampled.



Today I finally made it to one such treasure - La Pasionaria, a little place of many titles! Choose from cafe, restaurant, boutique, art store, design studio, bookshop, art exposition and more - either way, it all equals good fun (and a million colourful corners to feast your eyes on!).

Whether you peruse the eclectic array of intriguing coffee table books in the libreria (plenty of nudity in the name of art, always good), gawk at the collection of fantastic Uruguayan photos and artworks in the design studio, or simply chow down on some of the great (and reasonably priced!) food in their cafe "El Beso", you're sure to enjoy yourself.



La Pasionaria is in La Ciudad Vieja, on Reqonquista no.587, on the corner with Juan Carlos Gomez. They're open Monday-Friday 10am - 7pm and Saturdays 12 - 6pm. And if you like La Pasionaria you're such to get a kick out of Cafe La Pausa just around the corner. These two spots are sure to become my favourite weekend morning hangouts.

Cafe La Pausa is fantastic....one of those places that is both hidden and yet right in front of your eyes. It is also located in La Ciudad Vieja, along Peatonal Sarandi just after Plaza Matriz (walking away from the city). It is an ordinary looking front door, sometimes with a sign, sometimes without....but if you head up to the first floor you will find the lovely Alicia offering a gorgeous little cafe filled with fantastic books and magazines to rummage through, a menu of home-made goodies to feast on, and the wonderful soothing sounds of soft jazz and classic tango wafting casually through the air.



The tall windows not only allow you to curl up in the afternoon sunlight with a coffee, tea or freshly squeezed juice of your choice, but it also makes it a perfect spot for a little bit of people watching along the bustling Sarandi....and the owner Alicia really strikes me as a person with some great life stories to tell...if you're looking to practice your español! :)



Afterwards take a stroll through the feria that takes place in Plaza Matriz...there are so many old photos, records, keys, postcards, jewellery and intriguing snippets of other peoples lives to help you piece together an elaborate history of how Montevideo once was. Don't actually buy anything though - the prices are massively inflated and Sunday holds something even better - The Tristan Narvaja Market (I'll get around to writing a post on that one someday!).

Until next time....go out and find Montevideo's secret treasures (and let me know about them!)

16 comments:

  1. Hi!

    First, thank you for your very interesting notes about Uruguay and the Uruguayans. I am a native, but I really enjoy a lot reading about your point of view.
    I am graduated in International relations and a fan of them as well...just FYI, he he...

    Hope your stay here gets much better, if you need anything just let us know :)

    Cheers,

    Esteban

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  2. Por nada Estaban,

    Por favor deja tus comentarios, quiero leer las perspectivas de los Uruguayos tambien! Si tienes recomendaciones o si conoces un buen lugar que debo visitar o ver, dime!

    Do you live in Montevideo? Do you work in International Relations or is that just what you studied?

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  3. Hi IrishBlogger...

    Have you tried the coffe shop at the Centro Cultural Español?? Not that the coffe is soo special, though it is not bad. But the place is amazing, with lots of books, magazines, newspapers and videos...

    Really worth it...

    Welcome to Mdeo, BTW.

    Cheers

    Vale

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  4. I'm a globetrotting writer looking for a new perch. My dh and I are considering Uruguay and renting a place for a few months next spring to have a look around. I'm happy to find your blog and look forward to reading more!

    Miss Footloose
    www.lifeintheexpatlane.blogspot.com

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  5. Hey Valentina,

    I have been meaning to get to the Spanish Cultural Centre for such a long time for many events and exhibitions but for some reason it never happened! I will try a little harder next time now that you have recommended it :) The Mexican Cultural Centre looks really interesting too, I just walked passed it the other day.

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  6. Hey,

    Where´s the Mexican Cultural Centre?? Never heard of it.

    Are you planning to stay long in Uruguay? I recommend you spend the summer here if you can.

    Cheers :)

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  7. I think its on 25 de Mayo...I can't remember exactly. I think its only opened recently...

    I live here! I'm not going anywhere! I have been here since October 2008, I have my cedula, I've lived in Ciudad Vieja, Parque Rodo, Punta del Diablo and now I live in Centro.

    We should get in touch, I'd love to meet you! My email is elaine at totaluruguay.com

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  8. I miss Uruguay so much! Too bad I can't go back any time soon. You really are taking notice of the most beautiful places. You should visit Punta del Este too, it's really pretty there!

    http://peekintomyyard.blogspot.com/

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  9. Hi Vanessa,

    Its funny how when you're here things about the country drive you CRAZY, but once you leave you miss it! :)

    How long ago were you here? and for how long? I'm not a big fan of Punta del Este, La Barra is pretty, but then again there are SO many beautiful places in Rocha that don't have the arrogant crowds that invade Punta.

    Where did you live when you were here? Any specific recommendations? Bars? Cafes? Galleries? Favourite places? I would love to hear about your experience here!

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  10. It is really a very useful and informative blog.. I'm happy to find your blog and look forward to reading more!

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  11. What a fascinating blog! Thank you for sharing your experiences! Do you ever miss Ireland?

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  12. Hi CanAm Girl, I'm actually back in Ireland now! I lived in Uruguay for 2 years and loved it. I really adapted to life and culture there (though of course it took time and there were always some little things I never really got used to) but I have to say I rarely missed Ireland when I was there. I missed my family, and on certain days I would miss a random items like certain foods or things that are readily (and cheaply!) available in Europe and the US, but Uruguay really became my home and the little things became much less important the more I felt at home there.

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  13. I'm a Boston Irishman headed to Montevideo for a few weeks beginning March 16. I'd be interested in knowing if/where there might be any St. Patrick's Day celebration is the city or surroundings? Anybody know of any? Drop me a line at Homerhenn@verizon.net if you do.
    5-Star Hennessy

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  14. Hi Bostonian!

    I'm so sorry for the delayed reponse!

    Although there are little/no Irish people in Montevideo (shocking I know! seeing as we have managed to infiltrate every other corner of the globe!) they still celebrate Paddys day, and they do it well!!

    On the night of St Paddy's day Bartolome Mitre fills with swarms of green-clad party goers and they dance on tables and sing and generally have a great time! Be sure to wander by and check out the fun :)

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  15. Hey Elaine!

    Sharon here a fellow Irishhead moving to Montevideo to teach English. Job lined up but nothing else..as you say, an adventure. But you´re blog is class and really comforting to know where to get a good cup of tea on arrival (I still can´t quite get myself hooked on mate which may be a problem!I) Would be great to email to hear how you´ve settled back into life at home, maybe some tips on living in Mntvd. I realise it was a while ago since you lived there but....can I contact you at elain@totaluruguay.com?? Cheers

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    1. Hi Sharon, so sorry for the delay in getting back to you! When are you moving? You can't get me at my totaluruguay email anymore I'm afraid, but I'm not sure I want to put up my regular email address here in case of spamming...How else can we get in touch? If you send me your facebook name I could look you up there?

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