Things to see and do in Montevideo

Don't get me wrong, I love Uruguay and love Montevideo (otherwise why would I be living here?!) but this little city can feel a bit limiting sometimes. As such I have decided that from now on I will be making a more conscious effort to unearth the hidden gems and see what Montevideo really has to offer. I intend to fill my next few months with culture, art, music, history, events, food, and whatever other activities I can get my hands on...so stay tuned!

So far I've happened upon a few locations that have quickly become my favourites so we'll start with those.

CANDOMBE: This is a sure fire way to lift the spirit! Candombe is the traditional drumming music of Uruguay and during the weekend you can find local drum groups called comparsas practicing throughout the Barrio Sur and Palermo districts.

These groups march the streets playing infectious rhythms which literally draw people out of their apartments on to their balconies, rooves and door ways. Women (and some men) join the dancers which lead the way as they move through the streets and whole families just join the crowd - it creates a wonderful sense of community .

The pictures above were taken in Barrio Sur district, somewhere along Carlos Gardel Street I think. However now I'm living in Parque Rodo and one of the greatest comparsas (the all female one, I think they're called La Milasa?) practice right outside my house at the bottom of Juan Manuel Blanes - I could watch them for hours!

SUBTE: This little contemporary gallery always has something unique and original to offer the passerby. I've seen a powerful photo exhibit documenting the unexplained disappearances during the dictatorships and a fun modern and interpretive art collection so there's sure to be a good range.

It's located underground at Plaza Fabini along 18 de Julio and you can check out what they have planned at their blog (its in Spanish but very easy to navigate). They're open Tuesdays through Sundays from 3.30pm until 9pm.

I think next on my list will be Montevideo Zoo, The Municipal Photography Centre and The Visual Arts Museum (which I passed the other day and it looks really cool so that one might come first!)

Carnaval in Uruguay!

Bless them for trying! Uruguay quite reminds me of Ireland in trying to keep up with the Jones'....Despite their little size Uruguayans boast that their Carnival (Carnaval in Spanish) is the longest in the world. Although this may technically be true (as it "lasts" the whole month of February), in reality there are only a few big events and these cannot be said to rival those of their famous Carnaval neighbour, Brazil.

Don't give up on them just yet though, Uruguay's Carnaval is unique and most definitely worth a look!

Usually Carnaval month is kicked off with "El Desfile Inaugural" (the inaugural parade) on the main thoroughfare of '18 de Julio' at the end of Janurary - however this year a storm worthy of Noah's Ark blew down the eastern coast of Uruguay making that tradition close to impossible on its usual day. This parade includes everyone: the humoristas, parodistas, revistas, murgas, sociedades de negros and lubolos - I'm still learning the distinctions between all of these: Murga's (check out a video here) are like barbershop harmony singers making political jokes, I'm slowly getting to know all the local politics but luckily the music is internationally enjoyable! Lubolos are the white guys who paint their faces black, play the tambores (drums) and walk as though wearing feet shackles so as to pay tribute to slave communities who founded the candombe tradition in Uruguay. Anyone want to help me out with the rest?





Personally my favourite part of Uruguay's Carnaval is "El Desfile de Las Llamadas" (the parade of the calls). This takes place of the first Thursday and Friday of February and showcases all the Candombe Comparsas (local community drumming groups) who march through the traditionally black neighbourhoods of Sur and Palermo. They play fantastic beats, the women wear next to nothing (mostly without the hot body that is usually expected to accompany such clothing) and they wave flags big enough to clothe about 20 families....and its good luck to touch them so get in there and have a feel :)




First come the Estandartes (the banners...these introduce the different comparsas), then the massive flags followed by stars, moons, lights and fantastical bodies all carried by masked bearers. These are said to be representative symbols of the relgions practised by the slaves before they were brought to South America. Then arrive the Gramillero and Mama Vieja...the apparently old but still very vibrant (and often rather excitable!) old couple. Behind them comes the ever so important Escobero who sweeps away any negative energy with his broom...before the comparsa beats their way through the streets!

Other events go on throughout the month of February. From what I can see (and hear!) so far is that these "other events" mostly consist of Murga...everywhere! There's murga every night in Defensor Sporting Club on 21 de Septiembre (between Bulevar Espana & Bulevar Artigas)...I know this because the wind carries EVERY single note through the window of my apartment! There's also some bigger shows in the Velodrome in Parque Battle but really you can find Murgas, Humoristas & Parodistas (they all seem the same to me!) at tablados (venues with stages) throughout Montevideo during February so you have no excuse not to witness this cultural tradition!

If you're feeling a little more adventurous you should try travel to some of the small coastal towns...they may be small but their carnaval events are just as much fun (if not more!). I went to La Pedrera and it was fantastic, lots of water balloon fights, music and colourful flags everywhere, a great parade, and just generally an air of fun and laughter...not to mention great surf! I've also heard great things about the carnaval events in Punta del Diablo too...and there you get two for the price of one because it is one of the most beautiful places you will ever see, with or without carnaval.